Shoe Making Summer School – Pattern Making, Closing & Shoe Making

Our Shoe Making Summer School is designed to equip you with the core techniques of pattern making, closing and handsewn shoe making.

COURSE CONTENT

Over 18 intensive days you will learn the core disciplines of bespoke shoe making in three modules – pattern making, closing techniques and making the shoes.

Moduel 1: You will make a Derby and Oxford pattern from one last

Module 2: You will have an introduction to stitching on a post bed and a flat bed industrial sewing machine; learn the fundamentals of hand skiving, edge finishes and how to layer the lining and upper pieces; and put your learning into practice to make a single Derby upper

Module 3: You will make a pair of handsewn Derby shoes starting with a pair of uppers, lasts and a pack of leather

We’ll guide you, through trial and demonstration, as you discover the techniques of one of the most challenging and rewarding crafts over an intensive 18 days

TIME

Summer 2025 – dates tbc

Module 1: 3-Day Bespoke Shoe Pattern Making

Over three days you will learn the technical discipline of pattern making, transforming a shoe design into a pattern.

Working on our 0743 last, (or your own last by arrangement), you’ll learn the techniques and essential measurements to transform your designs into patterns.

Under the careful guidance of expert practitioner Fiona Campbell you will learn how to:

• Tape up a last
• Measure and mark the key design points onto the last
• Cut the sections off from the last
• Make a standard from the taped last
• Make a simple Oxford pattern and a Derby pattern from the Standard.

GROUP SIZE

Maximum 3 students

TIME

10 – 5pm; Wednesday – Friday

LOCATION

Balham, London (accessible via London Underground – Travelcard Zone3 – and National Rail to London Victoria and London Bridge)

Module 2: 3-Day Shoe Uppers Closing Techniques

Starting with your Derby shoe pattern, Fiona will show you how a pair of shoe uppers is cut out (clicked), prepared and stitched together.

You will learn the techniques used to hand skive, to prepare seams and to create different edge finishes. You will have the opportunity to use industrial flatbed and post machines, to practice techniques, and to learn how the lining and upper pieces go together as you make a single Derby shoe upper lined with natural russet leather.

GROUP SIZE

Maximum 3 students

TIME

10 – 5PM; Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday

LOCATION

Balham, London (accessible via London Underground – Travelcard Zone3 – and National Rail to London Victoria and London Bridge)

Module 3: 12-Day Handsewn Shoe Making

Starting with a pair of lasts, Derby shoe uppers and making leather, during some 96 hours of training time, we will guide you through the 200+ steps in the traditional English handsewn shoe making process including:

Hand lasting – pulling the upper over the last (the foot mould shape) and nailing it in place
Hand welting – stitching the strip of welt leather to the shoe
Soling – attaching the shank, filler and leather sole; stitching the sole to the welt
Heel building – building heels from leather, layer by layer
Finishing – rasping, glassing & sanding; polishing or dying and waxing

At the end of the course you will proudly walk away with a pair of shoes that you have made.

TIME

Thursday to Saturday; Monday to Saturday; Monday – Wednesday

LOCATION

Carreducker, Unit 1.20, Oxo Tower Wharf, London SE1

NEXT STEPS

6 WEEKS BEFORE SUMMER SCHOOL

Before the Summer School starts you will need to come into the workshop (or email us with your measurements):

• To try on a pair of sample shoes for size; or to send in your measurements so that we can choose the right size of last for you to work on
• To choose what colour(s) you would like your Derby shoes to be, choosing from our core colours including black, dark brown, marmalade brown, navy, white, aquamarine

• or a colour / colour combo of your choice

MATERIALS

All materials included; shoe trees available to order separately. The cost of the course includes all the materials that you need, including a pack of Bakers of Colyton oak bark leather to work with, a set of notes and a starter pack of shoe making tools.

FEE

18-day Summer School £4495

BOOKING

Book now and email us to arrange a time to come in to try on a sample pair of shoes to confirm your size. Summer 2025 dates tbc

See our full Terms & Conditions here.